John Clarke Mills Project Wiki - New pages [en]

Record Player

2008-02-13T02:23:45Z

Summary: /* General Dimensions */

== Record Player ==

This is going to be my first attempt at building a record player, luckily I wont be alone. My good friend and electronics expert Mark will be assisting me with motor controls and hte overall building. I will be responsible for the plinth, machining, and setup.

=== Components ===

*Jelco SD-750D [http://www.vinylengine.com/tonearm_database.php?make=Jelco&sort=manufacturer&ascdesc=ASC&type=1&pass=null&Search2=Search]
** Mounting distance from spindle on center - 214mm
** Effective length (pivot point to needle) - 229mm

* Le HiFi Club 40mm thick laser cut platter [http://stores.ebay.com/diy-hifi-supply50]
** 298mm diameter

* Le HiFi Club self-oiling bearing
** Two peices
** rifled barrel for oiling

=== General Dimensions ===

[[Image:record player diagram.jpg]]

Bullet Mirrors Installed

2007-10-02T20:58:51Z

Summary:

[[Image:bullet-mirrors-side.jpg]]

[[Image:bullet-mirrors-front.jpg]]

Ireland Stainless Exhaust

2007-09-27T05:35:05Z

Summary: adding photo

[[Image:ireland_exhaust.jpg]]

A-1 Imports Web Site and SEO

2007-04-12T04:41:07Z

Summary:

== Milestones ==
* 3/2/2007
** No Google ranking
*** Started working on righting the wrong link in to the site. Wrong website, wrong address, etc. One of our higher driving sites is m2bmw.com. I wanted to sort all of this out before making any changes to see where it would go.

* 3/10/2007
** All 4 pages indexed
*** Created the picture gallery on the site and began to add all the pictures.

* 3/20/2007
** Only a few gallery pages are getting indexed. Looking into rewrite options
*** Created a Google account for analytics and sitemap

* 4/2/2007
** No change in Google indexing
*** Changed site meta-data. The whole site needed to be re-done. All page titles were the same, as well as all the meta-data.

* 4/9/2007
** 15 pages indexed
*** No other changes

* 4/12/2007
** No SEO changes
*** Redirected all subdomain requests to www. This is crucial for rankings.

* 4/15/2007
** No SEO changes
*** We are getting great indexing from Google, two pages worth for many similar results to "a1 imports san rafael", "a-1 imports san rafael", etc. Also, a map to the location appears on top.

* 4/24/2007
** Even though we have implemented a redirect from all non-www subdomains to www.a1importsautoworks.com they have still not taken affect. Actually, when searching for all the pages index by Google for non-www we get 29 results. When search for all pages with www we get a total of 16. Sooner or later Google will get the message and hopefully combine the two.
** No changes

* 4/25/2007
** No new changes
*** The gallery did not use H1's by default! That has been switched. Results to come

* 5/8/2007
** We now over 140 pages indexed in Google which is huge jump from zero about 2 months ago. Unfortunately Google is still indexing non-www domains. I guess the redirect isnt fully updated.
*** No changes to the site

* 6/29/2007
** 200+ pages are indexed.
*** YouTube video launched yesterday. Traffic is through the roof! More to follow

Notes

2007-04-10T00:08:01Z

Summary: /* Moving */

== Moving ==

Address
*DMV
*PayPal
*eBay

A-1 Imports Autoworks Case Study

2007-04-01T21:57:28Z

Summary: /* Projects */

== Background ==

JP Cadoux, the owner and operator of A-1 Imports Autoworks, came to me in a quest to grow his business. He has been in business for himself for over 10 years, specializing in all car repairs, especially Europeans cars. He wants his business to grow as a whole but he wants to focus more on the custom fabrication portion. The cars he creates are extremely clean and meticulously fabricated making him famous, especially in the world of 1970's BMW's.

==== What we started with ====
*A great business with years of skill
*Loyal clientele
*Small web site (un optimized)
*No logo

== Mission ==
Our mission is simple. Grow the business as whole in reach as well as appeal to the high performance tuner industry that JP knows much about.

==== Goals ====
*Create a solid brand identity around performance and reliability
*Use the Internet as the medium to find and interact with the performance community (think YouTube).
*Build cutting edge "blog-worthy" cars to increase buzz and traffic to the web site
*Properly tune the website for the market we are after and optimize for search engines (SEO).

== Projects ==
*[[A-1 Imports Brand Identity]]
*[[A-1 Imports Web Site and SEO]]
*[[Press and Public Relations]]

Raising the rear end

2007-02-09T06:23:20Z

Summary: initial commit

As many people know, 2002's can and will start to sag after years of use. I accepted this when I bought the car, but after all this work, it was still sagging even after redoing the suspension. I will be investigating further. After asking around on the forums it was suggested that I replace my differential bushings. Some people have noticed the rear end lifting after changing out the 30 year old bushings.

Anyway, as a short term fix I decided to put the metal spacers in the rear that I had removed from the struts when I had my motor rebuilt. Long story short, drop the rear end shocks and pull out the springs, insert the spacer and a new 3 dot rubber spacer and call it a day.

[[Image: spacer.jpg]]

Carpet and Insulation

2006-12-30T04:48:40Z

Summary:

As we all know, 2002's are not known for being quiet. My car is even worse because of the ITB's. You can hear the valves chattering like crazy, which is badass, but annoying after too long. Its also scares everyone around me when I come down the street.

Anywho, I went on eBay and ordered sound insulation from B-quiet. Its actually the same stuff as DynaMat and others but at half the cost. For my job it will do just fine. It goes on easy and is very very sticky. Its holding up well under my hood too.

[[Image:sound insulation.jpg]]

Stereo Installation

2006-12-17T03:53:28Z

Summary: added wiring

Well I'm sick of getting my stereo stolen out of my little BMW so I have decided to just mount up and RF iPod dock, some amps, and some speakers. Once the iPod leaves the car there is really nothing to steal. I am also going to mount up an iBump crossover later, but first to get the stereo up and running.

Parts

* KeySpan RF iPod dock
* Speaker cable
* RCA cables (3)

Cables running from front to back 
 - two small batteries are located under the rear seat

* 2 gauge power cable
* Remote (ignition while hot for amp relays)
* Left and right channels for speakers
* 3 RCA cables

Final Assembly

2006-11-08T19:07:03Z

Summary: adding throttle linkage

[[Image: throttle linkage.jpg]]

[[Image: getting there.jpg]]

[[Image: finished assembly.jpg]]

FuelPlumbingForEFI

2006-10-20T04:48:34Z

Summary: FuelPlumbingForEFI moved to Fuel Plumbing For Electronic Fuel Injection

==Parts==
*EAR-100199ERL
** Gauge adapter AN6 male-to-female
*230206ERL x 2
**AN6 Fuel filters
*AEI-12301
** AN10 10 micron fuel filter
*AER-FBM2162 x 2
** AN6 to AN10 reducer male to male
*EAR-809106ERL
** 90 degree AN6 swivel hose fitting
*EAR-310006ERL x 2
** 10ft of AN6 autoflex stainless hose
*EAR-800106ERL x 5
** AN6 swivel seal hose fittings
*AER-FBM1512
** AN6 to barb
*EAR-360165ERL
** AN6 to 5/16 hard line
*RUS-650340
**Fuel pressure gauge
*EAR-985006ERL
** AN6 o-ring male straight cut to male AN6

Here are most the pieces all lined up

[[Image:plumbing_setup.jpg]]

Under Seat Battery Relocation

2006-09-21T02:55:52Z

Summary:

I have decided to move my battery for several reasons, the main being to make space for my fuel injection system. The other being getting the benefits of a deep cycle battery, better grounding (2 AWG), more ground, and finally weight distribution.

== Parts ==
*Odyssey PC680 12v deep cycle small battery
*Odyssey battery box
*15ft of 2 gauge marine battery calble ($$$)
*Kragen 4 gauge wire for grounding body to block
*Brass terminal for cable
*Random brass fittings to pass cable through body

== To Do ==
*Heat shrink
*Power distribution block

== To bring ==
*Torch
*Solder

Center Console Ideas

2006-09-07T19:06:17Z

Summary:

Links
*http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,279390/

[[Image:consoleidea1.jpg]]

[[Image:consoleidea2.jpg]]

[[Image:consoleidea3.jpg]]

[[Image:consoleidea4.jpg]]

[[Image:consoleidea5.jpg]]

Center Console

2006-08-21T04:53:05Z

Summary:

[[Center Console Ideas| Ideas and inspirations]]

Gauges
* Volts
* Oil
* O2

Stereo
* Power button
* link button
* LED indicator

Switches
* Radar
* Shift light
* Fogs front
* Rear fog
* Fuel cutoff
* Aux

Other
* Hazard
* Bluetooth
* Valentine sound
* USB
* Ash/coin tray

BilsteinHDInstall

2006-07-24T19:09:13Z

Summary: BilsteinHDInstall moved to Bilstein HD Install

Unfortunately I dont have any pictures, but it is a very easy installation. My buddy and I did the whole car in about 3 hours. Any competent do it yourself can complete this in an afternoon. These shocks feel incredible! It really make a huge difference. The car feels more confident and nimble, just as it was from the factory.

Rear: So the rears are pretty much self explanatory. Jack up the rear of the car and put it on jack stands. Then support one of the rear control arms with a jack, and unhook the shock and put in the new one. Its that easy.

Front: The fronts were a little trickier, but still pretty simple. You will obviously need a spring compressor for this job. First thing we did was detach the sway bar. Then detach the control arms from the subframe mount. Now its as easy as putting on spring compressors and unhooking the three bolts that hold the strut to the body. Now simply push it down and out of the wheel well. The rest is pretty self explanatory.

TWMComponenets

2006-07-22T06:19:05Z

Summary:

Here are some pictures of the TWM components. They are expensive but boy are they gorgeous. The machine work is perfect and it looks as if it had has been hand finished. I hope they work as good as they look.

[[Image:twm components.JPG]]

[[Image:main throttle.JPG]]

[[Image:dual throttle bodies.JPG]]

ThermistorCalibration

2006-07-21T23:42:29Z

Summary:

The temperature sensors were ordered from my local independent BMW parts dealer. OEM part number 62110788115. They are just the simple one wire-hookup type, the housing is the ground. They were very easy to calibrate actually. A lot easier than I thought. Just get yourself a known working thermometer and freeze and boil some water measuring the Ohm's at 3 three known intervals. Here are my results:

{|
| F
| Ohms
|-
|44
|1.300
|-
|80
|0.568
|-
|185
|0.73
|}

I then plugged them into my MegaSquirt and they all checked out. That simple.

[[Image: Thermistor calibaration.JPG]]

EFI

2006-05-30T19:31:05Z

Summary: /* Master parts list */

I have decided to go a different route then most and install two indivual throttle bodies (ITBs) instead of a single throttle body and plenum type system. So far everything is working great based on Speed Density (Maifold pressure reading) which many thought would not be possible. I also have a more agressive cam with no overlap which probably makes the situation easier (278 duration, .288" lift).

Heres what I have so far without spark control: http://youtube.com/watch?v=1MPw3m2VxWE

I have finally installed the EDIS spark control and what a difference it makes. This was actually one of the easier parts of the system to install because I already had the wire laid out. Anyway, following the Mega Manual was enough to get it installed and running within a few hours. Fortunately I already had a spark table from a friends car (although mine ended up being different). It cant be that that to build one from scratch based on your cars stock settings.

==Building==

[[ThermistorCalibration| Calibrating temperature sensors]]
 
[[TWMComponenets| TWM 40mm throttle bodies, TPS, fuel rail, and regulator]]
 
[[Fuel_Plumbing_For_Electronic_Fuel_Injection| Fuel plumbing]]
 
[[Final_Assembly| Final EFI assembly]]

==Research==

Initial thoughts: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/p,319629
 
FIdle and MAP: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/p,319717
 
Fuel plumbing, etc: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,204528/
 
Sensor calibration: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/p,324206/highlight,/#324206
 
Throttle linkage: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,280025/
 
AN Fittings: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,280238/
 
Fast idle: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/p,374534/
 
 
MegaSqiurt info 
Pickups (Hall, coil, VR): http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/pickups.htm 
MegaSquirt and Crane XR700: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,275308/ 
MegaSquirt and Tach signal: http://msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=131300&highlight=distributor 
36-1 tooth, Ford EDIS ignition (future): http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm 

== Tuning ==

Tuning will take 10's of hours, no if's and's or but's. There are no cutting corners here and no easy way out. It all becomes much easier once you can accept that (ask me how I know). Now I am getting quite good at tuning and actually enjoy it. Its great to be able to change the characteristics of my motor without getting my hands dirty.

The best thing to do is read the Mega Manual but outside of that here a few things I will reinforce. Work on small tables at a time. I find it easiest when my friend drives while I tune. Even if I had a dyno I would still want someone driving while I watch and tune. I also find it extremely helpful to work out of the car! Taking logs and going home to sit and relax and really think about what I am doing is perfect for me. It really easy to see irregularities and the Mega Logviewer allows you to modify the tables right in the program.

Other than that, read the manual and be patient. The manual does an excellent job and anything I could tell you here would be the same there. Oh yea, and change one thing at a time (the manual says that too).

==Master parts list==

* 2 TWM 2900 DOCE 40mm's (2900 + 2910)
* TWM Fuel rail
* TWM pressure regulator (2800-6401)
* TWM TPS switch and plug
* Mangoletsi intake manifold
* 318 water manifold
* Copper pipe bypassing manifold (to heater box)
* Electronic under-car fuel pump (40+ PSI. for a Ford F150)
* MegaSquirt (MS II v3. keeping distributor for now, future expansion in mind)
* O2 sensor (Innovate LC-1)
* 12' MegaSquirt pre-labeled wiring harness
* Mechanical fuel pump blockoff plate
* Two Bosch temperature sensors (62110788115)
* Painless wiring 7 circuit fuse box (dual relay hot switched relays)
* OEM BMW intake manifold gaskets
* Injectors (22# Bosch Pink Tops)
* Lokar throttle cable 36"
* [[Fuel_Plumbing_For_Electronic_Fuel_Injection| Fuel plumbing, filters, AN fittings, etc]]
* Mangoletsi barb for brake vacuum
* Grommets
* More band clamps (big ones for fuel pump)
* Hose mounting clamps
* 50mm TWM air horns

==Notes to self==

(none at this time)

MasterPartsList

2006-03-25T04:56:43Z

Summary:

* Motor
**MegaSquirt II V3 powered - fuel and spark controlled
**Bored, decked, honed, polished head and crank, and balanced final assembly with clutch
**9.5:1 piano top Mahle cast-iron tii pistons
**278 degree regrind (lift int/ex .288"/.288")
**EDIS wasted spark ignition system
**tii exhaust manifold
**Mangoletsi intake manifold
**TWM 40mm ITB's
**TWM 40x50mm air horns
**Sach's sport clutch kit
**Ireland Engineering passenger side motor mount
**Bosch pink top 22 pound injectors
**tii throttle linkage
**Earls AN fittings and hoses
**1980's E30 M3 starter
**Ireland 8mm plug wires
**tii resonator
**Ansa sport exhaust
**318i water bypass pipe

*Electrical
**Hella 160 vintage fog ligts
**Odyssey PC680 deep cycle batteries mounted under rear seat
**2 gauge marine battery cable
**65 amp 320i alternator
**Remote keyless entry and alarm system

*Wheels and Brakes
**Panasport 15x6 ET29's
**Sumitomo 195's
**tii brake booster
**e21 vented rotors
**Girling 4 piston calipers
**Ireland Engineering Stainless steel brake hoses

*Suspension and Driveline
**Replaced tie-rods and bushings
**Ireland Engineering front bushing set
**Ireland Engineering Short shift kit
**Bilstein HD shocks
**Ireland Engineering stage 1 springs
**Ireland Engineering coilovers in front
**Suspension techniques 22/19mm sway bars
**New subframe mounts with urethane inserts

* Interior
**Recaro seats from and rear (Aardvarck)
**New vinyl OEM BMW door panels
**B-Quiet sound insulation on entire floor
**Only02.com 15 piece nylon carpet set
**Re-covered leather factory sport steering wheel

*Other
**2 new door handles and keyed locks to match the ignition
**New-style passenger side door strap

CraneXR700Install

2006-03-06T03:16:43Z

Summary: CraneXR700Install moved to BMW 2002 Crane XR700 Install

This install is extremely simple and I think that anyone even a little bit mechanically savvy cam complete this task, which I would highly recommend. The car idles better, runs better, and even sounds better. I cant even begin to explain how much more responsive it is. Now I can change the spark gap to at least 32 thousands, instead of the usual mid 20's. I am hoping this will also help to get a hotter, more complete burn.

First thing I did was push the car in fourth gear to get the engine to TDC firing on the first cylinder. This will later give a good baseline for timing the car when your installation is complete. Here is a view of the points that we currently in my car. To start, remove the points, held in by one screw, and the condenser on the outside.

[[Image:points system.JPG]]

Dont worry about the wires that are connected to the condenser anymore. They will not be used. Next, mount the small bracket into the same hole that the points were connected with.

[[Image:first bracket is in.JPG]]

Next, attach the optical sensor to the other applicable bracket and get the proper optical disk ready. Now slide the two nicely into place at the same time. This makes it easier to ensure that the disk is going to fit between the the notch in the sensor.

[[Image:optical sensor and wheel.JPG]]

Now I wanted to reuse the same black plastic protector so I just cut holes in it to route the wires away from the spinning wheel.

[[Image:rotor is back on.JPG]]

As for the rest, follow the simple instructions in the installation guide provided. Ground the unit to a nice place, put the distributor cap back, and fire up the car. For me, it fired up instantly.

The timing was a little off so I loosed the distributor and turned it counter clockwise to advance it. I waited for it to get warn, and tuned it some more. Then I drove her around the block and enjoyed my brand new car. Well worth the money.

E30M3StarterInstall

2006-02-15T19:09:04Z

Summary:

I just installed the 1980's E30 M3 starter and wow! I would highly recommend this starter over any other. Since I raised my compression ratio it has been very hard to get the thing started and I couldnt figure out why. Turns out the stock 02 starter is not that torquey. I think the price is the same as any starter, but even if it wasnt, I'd still buy this starter. I barely even flick the key and the thing leaps to life. It is shocking.

You can get it from any of the BMW shops in town in under 1 day. The part number is 12.41.1.312.130 and its $171, or $155 with the return of your old starter. There is also a support bracket that is on back order which I will be installing in a week or so. Its not critical but it just takes some of the load off of the starter housing. It costs $10.00 and the part number is 12.41.1.308.480.

The install wasnt that hard, although it was a little bit tricky. I have a carbureted 02 with the stock manifold so I had to move a few things out the way including the lower water hose, the lower water temp sensor (left over from smog), the dipstick tube, and some miscellaneous wiring. After that, it was just a wiggle and a hard shake to get it out. The new starter is much smaller and lighter so its a piece of cake to get in.

2002MotorInstall

2006-02-03T18:58:21Z

Summary:

Now that the motor is back in the shop its time to bolt everything up. Once the intake and exhaust manifolds and the starter were bolted up we were ready to drop it back in.

The motor is ready for reinstallation

[[Image:motor ready for install.JPG]]

The final push to get this project done
 It took us almost 3 or 4 hours to get the transmission output shaft lined up with the clutch. What a pain in the ass that was

[[Image:motor going back in.JPG]]

Finally the motor is back in and plumbed up

[[Image:engine complete.JPG]]

[[Image:engine complete2.JPG]]

2002MotorRebuild

2006-01-31T02:56:26Z

Summary:

My 2.0 liter M10 BMW 4 cylinder motor is being rebuilt by Terry Tinney in Livermore, CA. The modifications include:

* Bead blasting
* Decking
* Honing
* Polishing
* Reground more aggressive cam, 280 degrees
* Mahle 9.5:1 high compression cast pistons
* New bearings, seals, rings
* Sachs performance clutch kit
* Complete balancing

As many of you know I pulled the motor earlier which I also documented [[EngineRebuild|here]]. I definitely have to thank my friend Duane for helping me on this one. Anyway, onto the photos.

Here are two pictures of the engine when I cracked it open
 As you can tell, the piston rigs were worn badly, allowing oil to seep into the combustion chamber. It was especially bad on cylinders 1 and 2. Turns out one of the exhaust guides was worn allowing the valve to flap around which slightly damaged the valve and the head. Other than that, the engine was in really good shape. Notice the water passages on the head - perfect.

[[Image:Block and cylinder closeup.jpg]]

[[Image:Cylinder head closeup.jpg]]

Here is the engine before the final rebuild
 I had to visit terry at the shop because he had bead blasted my manifold which I then took home to bore out and paint.

[[Image:bottom of head.JPG]]

Here is the top of the head

[[Image:top of head.JPG]]

Here is the block cleaned and ready for boring and honing

[[Image:block cleaned.JPG]]

Here is the motor being delivered to my shop

[[Image:motor being delivered.JPG]]

New head
 Here is the new head all nice and clean with a reground 278 degree cam, new valve guides, stems, and seals

[[image:rebuilt head.JPG]]

A view of the intake valves

[[Image:two intake valves.JPG]]

MotorBeforeReassembly

2006-01-22T06:59:07Z

Summary:

I stopped by the machinist today to pick up my intake manifold so I can bore it out to fit my new 38/38 carb. While I was there I took some pictures of the motor components.

Here is the bottom of the head
 All of the valves were in perfect order except for that was irregularly worn due to a ruined valve guide.

[[Image:bottom of head.JPG]]

Here is the top of the head

[[Image:top of head.JPG]]

Here is the block cleaned and ready for boring and honing

[[Image:block cleaned.JPG]]

73BMW2002TodoList

2006-01-18T04:04:50Z

Summary:

This is all temporary, mostly for internal use

* Speaker cable
* Work gloves
* Socket set
* Get speakers
* 6 Inch vacuum manifold

To do:
* Tighten distributor block
* Get carpet from work
* Install insulation
* Install speakers

Electric fan: http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=125133

GuageClusterFixing

2006-01-13T05:07:13Z

Summary:

The gauge cluster seems to be in pretty good shape. All the bulbs work, the speedometer works fine; however the odometer does not work.

Here is the advice that I got from Curtis A. Ingraham:

0. Remove instrument cluster from dash.
1. While speedo is still in cluster, loosen big nut on back of speedo.
2. Remove speedo from cluster. Handle carefully. Resist temptation
and do not touch needle or face.
3. Remove big nut and washer from back of speedo.
4. Remove speedo from back plate.
5. Notice that:
a. Speedo cable input on rear drives speedo;
b. Shaft from speedo to odo drives odo number wheel shaft;
c. Odo shaft drives a big aluminum-colored gear at
the end of the odo number wheel stack;
d. Odo is not turning because that big gear is slipping on
the number wheel shaft;
e. Number wheel shaft is held in position by friction with big gear.
6. Gently slide the number wheel shaft back and forth a very small
amount to verify that it is loose.
7. Find a temporary replacement shaft of slightly smaller diameter,
such as a nail or machine screw.
8. Replace number wheel shaft with temporary shaft as follows:
a. Identify end of number wheel shaft withOUT the gear.
b. Place end of temporary shaft against end of number wheel shaft.
c. Slowly and carefully press temporary shaft in, forcing
numberwheel shaft out.
d. At this point, temporary shaft is in, numberwheel shaft is out,
and numberwheels are still in place.
9. Locate position on numberwheel shaft where big aluminum-colored
gear normally sits. A polished band likely exists there. Verify
gear location by holding shaft against numberwheel frame.
10. With a center punch or cold chisel make a very light impression
on shaft at gear location. This distortion should be large
enough to fit tightly in gear, but small enough to pass through
numberwheels using finger pressure.
11. Try replacing numberwheel shaft in odo frame. Keep numberwheel
shaft end against temporary shaft end.
a. If numberwheel shaft won't go through odo frame or is tight in
numberwheels, distortion is too large. File slightly.
b. If numberwheel shaft slides all the way in easily, distortion
is too small. Punch it again.
c. When distortion is just right, shaft will stop sliding when
distortion reaches gear, and will not go into gear with finger
pressure.
d. Use channel-lock pliers or a small vise to press shaft firmly
into position in big gear. Leave a very small gap between odo
frame and small brass gear at other end of shaft.
12. Verify that numbers on numberwheels align correctly with
rectangular hole in speedo face.
13. Remove shaft between speedo and odo by removing one screw.
Turn numberwheel shaft with fingers and verify that wheels
turn smoothly, and ten's digit advances when one's digit goes
from 9 to 0. Replace speedo-to-odo shaft.
14. Replace back plate, washer, and nut (finger tight) on back of
speedo.
15. Clean speedo face with careful puffs of canned air. (If more
cleaning is needed, use water and lens tissue.)
16. Replace speedo in cluster, engaging trip odo reset shaft.
17. Reassemble cluster.
18. Tighten big nut on back of speedo, noting alignment of speedo
face.
19. Reinstall cluster in dash.
20. Test speedo and odo.
21. Reinstall underdash panels.

P.S. I previously advised fixing gear to shaft with super glue.
That repair doesn't last nearly as long as the distortion method
above.

Rear of the gauge cluster

[[Image:gauge cluster rear.JPG]]

Pushing out the odometer pin with a lollipop stick

[[Image:pushing odometer pin out.JPG]]

PartCleaningAndRenewal

2006-01-11T23:35:00Z

Summary:

Since I will be not replacing every single part with a brand new, I decided to refurbish the old ones. Although there is very little rust, there is still a little which I have decided to clean up, for example the radiator. What I have done is sanded down any rust I can find and/or get at and then sprayed them will rust removal which dries into a primer. After that I am spraying them with a light color of semi-gloss black high temperature paint.

Here is the radiator after it has been preped and painted

[[Image:painted radiator.JPG]]

Intake manifold primed and ready for paint
 After the machinist bead blasted the manifold and I ported it out to accept the bigger carb, I cleaned and primed it.

[[Image:intake manifold ready for color.JPG]]

Valve cover is primed, colored, and ready for a high temp clear coat

[[Image:valve cover ready for clear.JPG]]

The battery box has been cleaned and primed
 This is a real problem area on 2002's. It was completely rusted and therefore rusted the paint on the body as well. To prevent the problem from happening anytime soon I scraped and clean off most of the rust and sprayed it with rust killer which turns to primer. Then I sprayed yet more grey primer after that.

[[Image:primed battery box.JPG]]

Parts are complete and ready for install

[[Image:parts are painted.JPG]]

EngineBayCleaning

2006-01-11T23:24:04Z

Summary:

Well since my motor is out I have decided to do more than just have it rebuild and drop it back in to a dirty engine bay. What I am doing is moving all the wiring out of the way and cleaning all the grime and the little rust there is so I can repaint. After I spray some light paint I am going to fix up the wiring and re-cover it with new friction tape.

Here are two before pictures: 

[[Image:Empty engine bay being cleaned.JPG]]

[[Image:Empty engine bay being cleaned2.JPG]]

The cleaning has begun:
 It all came off pretty easily, it just took a lot of elbow grease (and some grease remover). Once everything was cleaned we sanded any rust and cleaned again.

[[Image:passenger side engine cleaning1.JPG]]

[[Image:firewall engine cleaning1.JPG]]

The engine bay is cleaned and masked off
 Since I am not removing everything from the car I had to mask of things like wiring and the brake booster. The paint was in good condition so I decided just to paint where necessary (I have to draw the line somewhere on this project).

[[Image:bay masked off and cleaned.JPG]]

Primer is laid down
 Everything looks great! I couldnt be happier with the results. Now its time for the color coat next week

[[Image:primer has been sprayed.JPG]]

[[Image:primer has been sprayed2.JPG]]

Finally 3 coats of color have been laid down awaiting clear next weekend

[[Image:color has been laid.JPG]]

The job is finally complete
 After three coats of the clear the job was done. The color matching was dead on! I was even shocked. Now the rest of the clear has to be buffed to look as good as the new clear :). My roommate and I managed to get all wiring wrapped back up and in place.

[[Image:engine bay finished.JPG]]

[[Image:engine bay finished2.JPG]]

StrutTowerLowering

2006-01-09T03:38:57Z

Summary:

As many of you know, there is a little 3/4" spacer on top of the strut in between the shock tower and the perch that the spring sits in. This leads the car to be "uneven", lower in the back and higher in the front. This was added when this car was first brought to America to comply with safety standards but really serves no other purpose, so it was time remove it.

This is actually quite easy to do. All you have to do is jack up the front of the car and unattach the sway bar from the control arms. Now support the strut with a jack from underneath and unscrew the strut from the body. Then lower the jack. With a little bit of force you lower the strut.

Notice the silver metal spacer on top of the strut:

[[Image:strut lowered.JPG]]

Now you can see how the finished shock on the far side sticks up farther into the engine bay:

[[Image:one side done.JPG]]

Here is what the spacers look like removed:

[[Image:both spacers.JPG]]

EngineRebuild

2006-01-08T07:24:57Z

Summary: EngineRebuild moved to BMW 2002 Engine Rebuild

This is my first rebuild ever. I have help from some friends and the message boards and thats about it. So far it hasnt been that hard but we'll see if I can get it running again. Luckily I will not be rebuilding the motor myself. I am leaving that to Terry Tinney in Livermore, CA. Everything else is up to me.

[[EngineRebuildChecklist| Master parts checklist and pricelist for engine overhaul]]

* [[EngineRemoval| Engine removal]] [[Image: icon_camera.gif]] DONE
* [[EngineBayCleaning| Engine bay cleaning and painting]] [[Image: icon_camera.gif]] DONE
* [[PartCleaningAndRenewal| Restoring and painting parts]] [[Image: icon_camera.gif]] DONE
* [[2002MotorRebuild| Motor rebuild]] [[Image:icon_camera.gif]] DONE
* [[2002MotorInstall| Motor reinstallation]] [[Image:icon_camera.gif]] DONE

FogLightInstall

2006-01-08T07:21:00Z

Summary:

Once I received my Hella 160’s from Susquehanna, I quickly installed them. I used a simple metal bracket from a home store and attached one end to the bumper bolts and the other side to the lights. When my headlights are on, my fogs come on, but when the brights are on they go off. Pretty simple system this far.

InitialInspection

2006-01-08T07:03:15Z

Summary:

== My first '02 ==

In hindsight I realize how lucky I am. I bought this car with really no prior knowledge of restoration, car mechanicals, let alone 2002s. The only 2002's I had ever driven are the rust bucket I test drove before I bought the one I own now! How and why did I do that? Well luckily I am young with nothing but time and money. Other than that, it was just something I had to do. There's no better way to learn than jumping right in. Also, I randomly walked into a good deal.

Research 
Well the first thing I did was log onto the 2002 FAQ (http://www.bmw2002faq.com) and started reading. I read as much as I could and search through the archives. I also read the FAQ's of course. People there are very helpful and extremely knowledgeable. People build some some crazy 02's there. Thats where I got all inspiration.

Inspection and purchase 
Well there's not much say. I am not going to write an inspection checklist because thats been done on the FAQ but I am going to say that you can get lucky. Random deals are out there. Anyway, one day that I was browsing Craigslist and found this 1973 2002 for sale in Novato, Ca for $2,700. After a few emails I was driving up the next day. On the way I had no idea what to expect nor did I think I would leave with the title. I was still becoming accustomed to these great machines and cars in general on a mechanical level.

Long story short, the paint was pretty clean, the electrical was great, the tranny was smooth, and the motor was responsive still but was burning some oil. I offered him $2,700 on the spot and he told me he would think about it. 15 minutes later on the way home he told me that his wife wants it gone to come back give him a $500 deposit! Despite its and age the fact that I was the fourth owner the body was true and straight! There was almost no rust on the car and what I did find was surface mostly in the engine compartment. The frame was completely rust free.

 
==Post purchase inspection==

Checked all of my grounds. Some seemed to be a little rusty so I sanded them down and reconnected them. The engine block ground still needs to be inspected.

I was low on brake fluid so I checked all my pipes and hoses; turns out one of my front right hoses had blown through. I am going to replace them with Ireland’s stainless steel lines.

Removed valve cover and checked clearances. To my surprise, they were all perfectly set at 0.007's. While I was under there I checked the timing chain which also seemed to be very new and in working order. Unfortunately I did not have a timing light so I am not sure on its sanity.

Drained my oil. To my surprise, it was horribly taken care of. The oil was thick like lubricating grease. I immediately replaced it with Mobil 1 synthetic 10W-30. I am going to run that out for a month and change it again in hope that it will remove most of the old oil. After changing the oil and driving the car I noticed a fair amount of white smoke which soon faded after a little use. I am guessing its from the old oil being burned out?

Put in the lower Ireland Engineering Motor mount. I wasn’t sure how to put in the left hand side mount so I left it out. I think its for a different model of mounts. I will most likely sell it on eBay.

Fixed my exhaust hanger. The one right behind the rear cross-member was completely soggy, draping the exhaust on the sway bar and cross-member. This completely fixed the vibration problem.

EngineRemoval

2005-12-30T04:28:03Z

Summary:

Removing and engine is not as hard as you may think. Its a little bit overwhelming at first, but it simple enough where I feel confident enough to do it again by myself. Luckily this time I had a buddy to help me get it out of the car.

So here are two tips that I would highly recommend. The first being, bring a digital camera along. I took pictures from every angle so if I have to figure something out, I can refer back to them. The second being, label everything. I labeled every wire and hose, in and out in some cases, to make reassembly a snap. I also put all the various nuts and bolts in ziplock bags and labeled them to make things even easier.

Here is a picture of the engine before any work has been done:

[[Image:before any work.jpg]]

Another picture before any work:

[[Image:initial closeup.jpg]]

The hood is off and work has begun:

[[Image:work has begun.jpg]]

Alternator and carb are out as well as more labeling:

[[Image:Alternator and carb are out.jpg]]

Final teardown before engine is removed:

[[Image:final teardown.jpg]]

Hoisting motor after transmission is unbolted: 

[[Image:hoisting motor.jpg]]

Empty engine compartment: 

[[Image:empty engine bay.jpg]]

Engine on the ground before final disassembly: 

[[Image:engine closeup.jpg]]

Block and cylinders closeup: 

[[Image:Block and cylinder closeup.jpg]]

Cylinder head closeup: 

[[Image:Cylinder head closeup.jpg]]

Finally the engine is disassembled and in the trunk on the way to the machinist: 

[[Image:engine in trunk on the way to the machinist.jpg]]

EngineRebuildChecklist

2005-12-06T21:19:27Z

Summary:

{|
|- style="background: silver;"
| Item
| Price
|-
| <strike>38/38 Syncronous double pumper</strike>
| $400
|-
| <strike>Tii exhaust manifold</strike>
| $199
|-
| <strike>6 nuts for valve cover</strike>
| $10
|-
| <strike>Bolt for valve cover</strike>
| $0.95
|-
| <strike>Flywheel cover and bolts</strike>
| $40.00
|-
| <strike>Water pump gasket</strike>
| $1.10
|-
| <strike>Exhaust manifold to downpipe nuts and bolts</strike>
| $5.00
|-
| <strike>Breather for valve cover</strike>
| $19.95
|-
| <strike>Inline clear fuel filter</strike>
| $1.80
|-
| <strike>Gearshift knob</strike>
| $21.95
|-
| <strike>Gasket washers for fuel pump</strike>
| $1.80
|-
| <strike>Gasket for oil filter</strike>
| $2.00
|}

73BMW2002Restoration

2005-12-06T05:37:48Z

Summary:

{|
|[[Image: 2-12-06.jpg| |thumb|left|200px]]
|[[Image: finished assembly.jpg|[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MPw3m2VxWE Click here to watch the video]|thumb|left|200px]]
|[[Image: new-wheels.jpg| |thumb|left|200px]]
|}
Welcome!
Here I will be documenting my first ever car restoration project. Actually its more of a "rolling" restoration as the car isnt being completely torn down. Anywho, I have a come a long way since the beginning and you can watch me learn as I go along. I am what I like to call an Internet Mechanic. I really had no prior knowledge of cars until now. I learned literally everything I know from the Internet especially my favorite message board www.bmw2002faq.com. I am documenting this project to help others just as I was helped.
 
[[MasterPartsList| Master parts list (all modifications)]]

 

{| style="width:600px;"
| Here are the projects in chronological order:        
| style="align: center;" |Date           
| Odometer
|-
| [[InitialInspection| Initial inspection and purchase]]
| 9.10.05
| 68k stopped
|-
| [[FogLightInstall| Fog light installation]]
| 9.19.05
|-
| Ireland Engineering suspension bushings installed
| 10.1.05
|-
| [[BMW 2002 Engine Rebuild| Complete engine overhaul and rebuild]] [[Image: icon_camera.gif]] BIG
| Jan '05
| rebuild
|-
| [[StrutTowerLowering| Removing strut tower spacer to lower the frontend]] [[Image: icon_camera.gif]]
| 1.8.06
| 0
|-
| [[GuageClusterFixing| Fixing the odometer and clean the gauge pod]] [[Image: icon_camera.gif]]
| 1.12.06
| 0
|-
| [[E30M3StarterInstall| Late 80's E30 M3 starter]]
| 2.14.06
| 10 Miles
|-
|[[BMW 2002 Crane XR700 Install| Crane XR700 installed]] [[Image: icon_camera.gif]]
| 3.4.06
| 485 Miles
|-
|[[Bilstein HD Install | Bilstein HD installation ]]
| 7.24.06
| 2800 Miles
|-
|[[Electronic Fuel Injection| Electronic Fuel Injection]] [[Image: icon_camera.gif]] BIG
|11.24.06
|3970 Miles
|-
|[[Under Seat Battery Relocation|Under Seat Battery Relocation]]
|11.15.06
| 3970 Miles
|-
|Ireland Stage I springs
|12.14.06
| 4213 Miles
|-
|E21 vented rotors with girling calipers
|12.14.06
| 4213 Miles
|-
|[[Carpet and Insulation|New carpet and sound insulation]]
|12.29.06
| 4400 Miles
|-
|[[Raising the rear end|Raising the sagging rear end]] [[Image: icon_camera.gif]]
|1.14.07
|4700 miles
|-
|Front air dam
|5.12.07
|5474 miles
|-
|Front coilovers
|6.23.07
|6053 miles
|-
|Suspension Techniques sway bars
|7.20.07
|6573 miles
|-
|[[Ireland Stainless Exhaust|Ireland Engineering stainless exhaust]] [[Image: icon_camera.gif]]
|9.26.07
|6800 miles
|-
|[[Bullet Mirrors Installed|Chrome bullet mirrors]] [[Image: icon_camera.gif]]
|9.27.07
|6810 miles
|-
|5-speed and 3.91 LSD
|7.19.08
|7300 miles
|-
|[[Center Console|Rebuilding center console]]
|planning
|-
|[[Stereo Installation|iPod stereo and amplifier (no head unit)]]
|planning
|}

[[73BMW2002TodoList| Todo list]]